To sleep in Cadaqués there are four references: the old town, hilly and with no car at the door; the waterfront and Es Poal, the flattest and liveliest centre; Es Llané, to the south and quieter; and Portlligat, Dalí's bay, outside the village. Either way, the car stays outside the centre.
Cadaqués is small, but where you sleep still matters. Between a house at the top of the old town and another by a beach on the south side there are steps, suitcases and, in August, a lot of people. This guide sets out the parts of the village as official sources describe them, what each one involves and what is worth checking before you book.
One village with cove names
For official statistics, Cadaqués is a single settlement. The Idescat gazetteer at 1 January 2025 counts 2,735 people in the settlement of Cadaqués and 171 living scattered outside it. The «areas» people mention when looking for somewhere to stay are not neighbourhoods with boundaries: they are the names of the beaches, coves and corners that locals use to find their way.
So it helps more to think about what surrounds each spot than to look for a map of districts. The four references that come up most are the old town, the waterfront with Es Poal, Es Llané to the south and Portlligat, just outside the village.
The old town: hills and slate
The old core is listed as a cultural asset of national interest. It was once walled, sits on a rocky hill crowned by the church of Santa Maria and runs down to the sea. Its streets are narrow and steep, paved with slate slabs and stones, the rastell.
Sleeping here means waking up in the postcard Cadaqués, with conditions: the car cannot reach the door, suitcases are carried up by hand and flat shoes help. For anyone travelling light who wants to walk out at any hour, it is the easiest area. For anyone with limited mobility, it is the hardest.
The waterfront and Es Poal: the centre by the water
From es Baluard the village opens in two wide curves over the bay, following the riba, the promenade along the water. That seafront is also part of the protected historic ensemble. In the middle is Es Poal, an urban beach of about 30 metres between the Platja Gran and the Pianc, made of stones and coarse sand, where fishing boats are usually pulled up.
It is the flattest and liveliest area: shops, bars and the promenade a step away. On Monday mornings the weekly market sets up in the riera. The other side is that in summer all that movement passes under your window.
Es Llané: the south of the village
The Llané Gran beach lies at the southern edge of the village; it is 93 metres long and made of sand, gravel and pebbles. The family house where Dalí spent many summers, and where Lorca visited him, stands there. Beyond the rocks of Pere Joan is the Llané Petit.
It is an area of houses facing the sea and quieter streets than the centre, reached on foot along the edge of the bay. The village beaches, one by one, have their own guide.
Portlligat: Dalí's bay
Portlligat is another settlement within the municipality, a small bay closed off by the Illa de Portlligat and Sa Farnera. It was a fishing base and is now known for the Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí. According to the Catalan Wikipedia, it keeps some fishermen's huts, has two hotels and its houses are few and hard to see from the sea.
Sleeping here means choosing silence and still water over having the village on your doorstep: the walk into the centre is explained in detail in the guide to Dalí's house on foot. During the day, visitors coming and going to the museum are the only bustle.
Car, campervan and season
Whichever area you choose, the car stays outside the centre. Where and how is covered in where to park in Cadaqués and in getting there and parking without a fight; if you come by campervan or motorhome, first read what the bylaw says about sleeping in your vehicle.
The season changes the village more than the area does. According to Idescat's seasonal population estimate for 2024, an average of 5,758 people are added to the 2,894 residents between July and September, and only 869 between January and March. The full figures are in how many people live in Cadaqués.
What to check when booking
In Catalonia, a tourist-use dwelling is let as a whole, for stays of 31 days or fewer, and needs the licence granted by the town council. Once licensed, the Registre de Turisme de Catalunya gives it a registration number, the NIRTC, which must appear in all advertising and somewhere visible inside the home, together with the maximum capacity and a support phone number. In the province of Girona those numbers start with HUTG.
On top of that you pay the Generalitat's tax on stays in tourist establishments: the accommodation collects it and itemises it on the invoice, per person per night, up to a maximum of seven nights; under-17s are exempt. As of October 2026, Cadaqués is not on the list of towns with a municipal surcharge published by the Agència Tributària de Catalunya.
Checked
Checked in October 2026. Settlement and scattered population: Idescat gazetteer of population entities (1-1-2025). Old town and waterfront: Catalan Wikipedia, «Cadaqués» and «Conjunt històric de Cadaqués» (citing the Generalitat's Architectural Heritage Inventory). Es Poal, Llané Gran and Portlligat: Catalan Wikipedia. Seasonal population: Idescat seasonal population estimates, 2024 provisional. Tourist-use dwellings and NIRTC: Generalitat Department of Business and Labour, FAQs and Registre de Turisme de Catalunya codes. Tax: Agència Tributària de Catalunya.
Quick questions
Which part of Cadaqués is best if I want to avoid hills?
The waterfront and Es Poal, the centre by the water, is the flattest area. The old town has narrow, steep slate streets.
How do I know a holiday let in Cadaqués is legal?
A tourist-use dwelling must show its Registre de Turisme de Catalunya number, the NIRTC, in all advertising and inside the home; in Girona it starts with HUTG.
Is there a tourist tax in Cadaqués?
Yes, the Generalitat's tax on stays in tourist establishments, per person per night, up to seven nights; under-17s are exempt.