The Picos de Europa from the Nalón Valley

From Pola de Laviana to Cangas de Onís it's about 65 kilometres and roughly an hour's drive. The order that works best is Cangas, then Covadonga, and, later in the day, the Lagos. In 2026 the restriction runs continuously from 1 June to 18 October: the road to the Lagos closes to private traffic and only the shuttle bus runs.

Some mornings the valley wakes up with fog sitting in the bottom, and an hour further east, the limestone of the Picos is already lit up by the sun. That's the advantage of the Nalón: having the most famous massif on the Cantabrian coast within reach of a single morning, no heroic early starts required. The trick isn't rushing — it's planning the day well, what to see, at what time, and in what order — so Cangas de Onís, Covadonga, and the Lagos all fit comfortably between breakfast and sunset.

How to plan the day: from the Nalón to Cangas de Onís

From the heart of the valley — say, Pola de Laviana — to Cangas de Onís, it's about 65 kilometres and roughly an hour's drive. It's a comfortable distance: you can leave without rushing, be in Cangas by mid-morning, and still have the whole day ahead of you. The fastest route joins the motorway and avoids the bends; the prettiest one crosses the Ponga Natural Park and comes down through the Desfiladero de los Beyos gorge, and it's worth saving for the way back, once the clock stops pressing.

The order that works best is low to high, and light crowds to heavy ones: Cangas first, then Covadonga, and the Lagos later in the day. With one exception: if the plan includes going up to the Lagos during the regulated season, it's worth flipping that logic and booking the bus for first thing, because the rest of the day gets organised around that slot.

Cangas de Onís and Covadonga: stone, water, and memory

Cangas was the first capital of the Kingdom of Asturias, and its best-known image is the medieval bridge over the river Sella — called the 'Roman bridge' out of habit — with the Cruz de la Victoria hanging from the central arch. It's a short, bright stop: a coffee by the riverbank, the obligatory photo, and, if you feel like stretching your legs, a walk along the river before heading on to the sanctuary.

A few kilometres on, Covadonga is both mountain and founding myth. The neo-Romanesque basilica of Santa María la Real was built between 1877 and 1901 on the hilltop; at its foot, set into the rock, is the Santa Cueva, holding the image of the Santina, patron saint of Asturias, and the tomb of Don Pelayo, who according to tradition defeated the Umayyad troops here in 722. You visit in silence and without a ticket: this is a living place of devotion, not a stage set.

The Lagos and the 2026 transport plan

Enol and Ercina, the two glacial lakes, are the natural high point of the day, but on the busiest dates you can't drive up in a private car: the road closes to private traffic and only the shuttle bus runs. In 2026 the restriction covers Easter Week and the start of spring (from 28 March and much of April), 1 May and weekends, and continuously from 1 June to 18 October, plus a handful of individual days between October and December.

The bus ticket costs €9 per adult — return, valid all day — and €3.50 for children aged 4 to 11; under-3s ride free. Parking in the designated areas — P1 at Cangas station, El Repelao and El Peregrino throughout the period; El Bosque and Muñigu only during Easter Week, July, and August — costs €2 per car. The first buses go up at 8:00 am and the last at 5:45 pm, with the descent running until 8:50 pm (hours are shorter in autumn). It's worth booking online at alsa.es: advance purchases take priority over tickets sold at the car parks.

When to go (and when not to)

The best time is late spring and autumn: May, June, and September bring good light, green meadows, and far fewer people than the July–August peak. In high summer the Lagos fill up by mid-morning and the experience loses some of its quiet; if August is the only option, catching one of the first buses makes a real difference.

One detail almost nobody checks: there are specific days when the road isn't regulated — the afternoon of 24 and 25 July, for instance, or 8 September — and you can drive up. It sounds tempting, but those tend to be exactly the busiest days, so the bus ends up being more comfortable than circling around looking for a space. And always, always check the forecast: in thick fog the Lagos simply vanish, and it's worth changing the plan.

The gorge and the big hike

For the way back, or for a second day, the Desfiladero de los Beyos is one of those roads you remember: a karst canyon some twelve kilometres long where the Sella squeezes between walls over 600 metres high, following the N-625 toward Oseja de Sajambre. You do it by car, slowly, stopping at the pull-offs; it's pure geological spectacle without even getting out of your seat.

Anyone up for lacing up their boots has the Ruta del Cares close by, the busiest mountain trail in Spain: about 12 kilometres one way — double that there and back — between Poncebos (Asturias) and Caín (León), carved into the rock above the gorge. It's not dangerous, but it demands respect, water, and decent footwear; and again, May, June, or September beat the summer crowds.

A river with a name of its own: the Sella

The same river that runs past Cangas and squeezes through the Beyos gorge is the star of the north's most famous river festival. The Descenso Internacional del Sella, in its 88th edition, is held on Saturday 8 August 2026 between the bridges of Arriondas and Ribadesella: over a thousand paddlers set off at noon to cover some twenty kilometres of fast water, with Santi Cazorla giving this year's opening address.

Outside that one day, the Sella is enjoyed at a calmer pace: a canoe trip down from Arriondas rounds out the trip nicely, especially with children, or if you're in the mood for water after the mountains. Whether from a canoe or a viewpoint, the river ends up being the thread that ties the whole trip together.